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Yep, learning how to do all kinds of things alone these days. Good Luck!

@davesvo All of my water is in the big rear luggage bay, 100 gallons fresh, and 100 gal gray/black. The bay doors have spray foam between the inner and outer skin. The bay floor, front and back walls are lined with 1"foam board. I have a 120v room type, thermostatically controlled space heater like you would put under your desk to keep your feet warm. I set it on 70° and it keeps everything warm. The plumbing runs in the living space, which is heated with a heat pump (See my video on that). Only restriction is that I have to be plugged in or running to keep everything warm. At home, the bus lives in a garage that never goes below 35°, usually not that low except when it is in single digits for multiple days, and then I turn on heaters. Thanks for the question. Good luck with your bus build!

@@strayhound61 Thanks for the detailed info. I think I can make something similar work for me, I did think about a electric space heater but wasn't sure if it would do the job. All my pumps, tanks, and the water heater is in that same rear bay. the only plumbing in the next bay forward is the trap for the shower and the feed lines to the kitchen sink, so i would probably need a heater in that bay also. My bus has a Webasto for heat that is connected to engine coolant, so I could probably put a unit heater in the bays to keep them warm while running down the road and when the inside heat is on, and just use the electric when parked or when i don't want the webasto burning diesel. Thanks!

@tkzt1 That's a great question I wish I had an answer to. Ours vents to the outside so we don't have more than the screen filter on the bottom. I'd be guessing if I tried to tell you. Sorry, wish I could help.

Hi Peter, Thanks for the question. Are you asking about how the ball is attached to the bus or are you asking about the bracket for the Jeep? If you send me your email address to johnmatthews61 at gmail I'll send you pics.

AP Armaflex Tape. Box says Tap18230 on it from Home Depot. It's pipe insulation tape for exposed water pipes. About 1.25-1.5" wide roll. Sticky on one side.

Look up Bus Trader magazine and subscribe.

I purchased it online, I think on Amazon or maybe Appliance Parts. com. It's a little hard to get and a 3 week delivery from Samsung. Cost a little more but had it in two days.

Interesting. I can't imagine where you heard that. Completely untrue. These coaches used the Detroit Diesel series 71 engines. The earliest models used 4-71 and 6-71 series Detroits (4 and six cylinder configurations, 71 cubic inches per cylinder) From 1961 through 1988, GM manufactured these over-the-road coaches (with slight body changes every few years) almost all exclusively using the 8-71. They were workhorse engines often getting well over a half million miles on them. The one in mine has over 250,000 miles and is still going strong. While they have used slightly different size injectors, they have NEVER been a consistent problem. The only time they are a problem is when someone comes along and puts Bio-Diesel fuel in the tank. They are not compatible with anything other than #2 diesel fuel or kerosene. These engines were widely used in marine applications, off-road heavy equipment, and widely used in the military. They are one of the toughest engines ever built and the injectors were never a common problem as long as proper clean fuel is used.

Thanks for your comment! Glad you liked it.

Good Luck with your 5. I remember those park buses well. Better off with one w/o the bathroom, easier to convert (if you plan to convert it) and you don't have to mess with the nasty old mess they made.

Good luck with your new bus. If you have any questions about it, I'm always happy to help. Happy Trails?

Yes, all trailers must have an appropriate registration, state inspection, and display a license plate.

That's right! Now in Cape Hatteras. We would have stopped for you😊

Thanks! Hope it works for you.

Home Depot I think. It's for wrapping pipes to keep them from freezing. Thanks for watching!

Yes, Eric, I agree. It's one of the things I like most about my bus, everything is/was rebuildable and often with simple over-the-counter parts like O-Rings or homemade gaskets. But, the days of rebuild or refurbish are behind us sadly. It is infuriating when you can't make an inexpensive repair on such a large ticket item. Sorry to hear about your fridge. But, it was good to hear from you anyway. All the best!

Yes, the brakes on the bus (see my other videos on our bus) are more than adequate to handle the bus and the Jeep. However, state laws, which are different from state to state, require the toad to have a braking system in most states for any towed vehicle weighing over 3,000 lbs. Thanks for watching. Check out my other videos on UA-cam on the Jeep and our converted bus.

This was just a short test drive. All the things you mention are corrected when towed with our bus, which is what the package was set up to do. Check out my other Jeep towing videos and my other bus videos. Thanks for your comments and for watching.

The steel is all 5/16" thick. The nuts, bolts, and washers are all SAE grade 8. (best to purchase at Fastenal or other reputable bolt dealer) Be sure to use lock nuts for safety. Good luck with your project! Note: I have done similar baseplates on two previous vehicles also and have not had a problem yet. Just came off a 6k mile trip with the Jeep that has now been towed over 15k miles on this baseplate.

Sorry, it's sold.

Thanks for watching Glenn!

Happy to help. Hope this solves your problem. Let me know. Good luck!!

*** UPDATE *** I had some wide foam rubber that I used on my canopy that worked perfectly for this. I parked my Jeep with the nose downhill and ran a hose over the roof before and after installing the weather stripping. I can tell you that installing the weather stripping, just like shown in John Matthew's video, solves this leak. Thank you John for taking the time to make this video and sharing this solution. Now, I'm looking forward to the next rainstorm!

@@nova24nova24

Yes I love it when it pours down rain on my Jeep. ;-) Glad to know it worked. Thanks for the positive feedback!

I installed an Invisibrake system after this test drive. So there is no added braking while this video is being recorded. I do have a video about the INVSIBRAKE installation. Thanks for watching. Check out my other videos and be sure to "Like." Thanks for the question.

Hi Taylor, Thanks for the question. There is a spline in the center of the rubber channel that holds it all together tight. You would simply find the break in the spline and pull it out first, all the way around. For the big glass, you would remove all three pieces. Then with a putty knife and a helper you can gently pry out one corner of the glass, being careful not to nick the glass (a nick will cause a crack across the glass) or use a plastic putty knife to be safer. To install place the rubber gasket around the window first. Place the lower edge of the glass in the channel and work it in around the glass with the putty knife...plastic is better here for sure. Once all three glass pieces are in the slot where they belong, you can replace the spline. There are tools for the spline that you use to run the spline through and open the channel as you go around. I have them but I like the one I made batter with a pair of vice grips and a piece of coat hanger. Just hold the hanger wire in the vice grips and use a screw drive about the size of the spline and twist a circle. Then angle it slightly and insert the spline. Use a little soap to make is pull easier. Hope this explains. If not feel free to ask again. Thanks for watching! be sure to like and subscribe!

Ok thanks, when preping for paint do you have to seal any seems, and is drilling the rivets out that need to be replaced the easiest way? Do I need to put a sealer under rivets? Thanks

@@tylorwinstead2184 Hi Taylor, Thanks for the question. First off, I absolutely wouldn't drill out any rivets. They are buck rivets which are hammered in and deformed to expand and fill the rivet hole and must be installed using a buck bar on the back of the rivet while hammering the outer part. You cannot replace them with a pop rivet. Pop rivets won't be nearly as strong and they are prone to leaking. Unless you have excessive corrosion around the rivet, I would recommend simply scuffing up the paint around them and removing any loose paint and sanding and use a good aluminum etching primer and paint. The front cap and the trim around the rear glass are the only steel parts of the roof. The rest is aluminum. The steel may rust and if it does, it should be treated with a rust neutralizing primer, like One-Step. Other than that, try to disturb the rivets as little as possible. The original rivets are installed so tightly there should be no water leakage around them even if if the paint has come off. On the back side each of the panels has a tar based undercoating that further seals the area around the holes in the panels and the ribs. Good Luck with your painting project!

Thanks John, I have some rivets working there way out so I need to replace them, I have a few side windows sheeted over and the rivet in it is working there way out. I can not get to the backside due to the conversion. I thought olympic shave head rivets would be good to replace them with. Do you know anyone who who works on these old buses?

@@tylorwinstead2184 The rivets around the window panels are not structural like the roof and sidewall rivets (including the roof bows that pass between the windows from the roof to the sides) are which form the integrity of the body structure, since there are no frame rails for strength. What part of the country is the bus and are you asking about body and paint or mechanical and who works in them?

Yes, I know that. I'm usually correcting others about that also. Auto correct changed it and I missed it when I posted it. After it's posted, it can't be changed without deleting the video and starting over and I figured that was too much trouble. It's spelled correctly on the video listing but not in title page within the video. Thanks for the catch, but we're both just going to have to live with it. Hope you enjoyed the video anyway. Thanks for watching!

Many thanks!

Thanks a lot 😊and thanks for watching.

Ha Ha, I wish! The OBD2 said otherwise and we have inspections every 2 years that don't like the check engine light. Plus I don't want to ruin the cats with a rich mix. And, it's a Chevy, its the Fords that blow out the plugs. Thanks for watching!

Yes, but it's kinda fun! And the best part...the Jeep was still behind the bus at the end!

Hi Gary! Of the 6,000 miles we went on that trip, I'd say it was one of the nicest parts. It was a really pleasant and strangely relaxing drive through the Thompson Creek road. I'd do it repeatedly if I could. And, yes, the noise level in the bus is pretty pleasant in the front. I think it's a little different in the back above the engine, but it's really hard to drive from back there so I really couldn't say firsthand. Thanks for watching!

Perhaps, but Camping World and other suppliers carry several models including the Dometic brand shown here.

Hi Gary, All's good. Was on a five month, 6k mile, cross-country bus trip. Might have a vid or two from that. Thanks for checking. All the best!

Sorry, don't think so. You can call the owner in the description to make sure.

I agree, OUT with the Eagle caps!